Fashion and design change rapidly, with new trends that crop up and that die almost every day. Until just a few decades ago there was the risk that sustainability might well appear to be just another passing fad; today, luckily, that has changed.
Sustainability, in its various forms (environmental, economic, social) is a self-aware movement, in constant growth, and seemingly unstoppable, like the majestic and awesome tides that surfers so love to ride.
Along our path, we have learned that sustainability can assume different and inspiring shapes and depths. So, one day, with a used sail in hand, we asked a simple question: how can we be part of this? Well, we came up with an answer, and drafted the thesis of our manifesto.
Our Purpose.
We want to promote responsible consumption through the upcycling of sails and commercial fabrics, as well as through the use of PVC deadstock and leftovers, outdoor and indoor fabrics, all of which are still functional, but destined for the junkyard. We want to use these materials to make things that last.
This is our purpose. We know that some of these terms might seem odd; but they’re not. Words and terms like upcycling, leftover, deadstock, circular economy, recycling, and carbon footprint are anything but trendy ideas of the moment.
We think it’s worthwhile to try clarify some of this, so that the next time you hear or read about these ideas you’ll have a better understanding of them, and us.
A circular economy is a model that involves sharing, lending, repair, reconditioning and recycling of existing materials, aiming to make those materials last as long as possible. This virtuous approach minimizes waste, and maximizes the use of resources, all while reducing waste by eliminating, reducing or, in the worst-case scenario, delaying its carbon footprint.
A carbon footprint is a measure of the environmental impact of individuals, organizations or products, expressed as emission of greenhouse gases. It’s intuitive, or should be, that waste generated by synthetic materials has a greater impact than that generated by organic materials.
Recycling is a pillar of the circular economy, and consists in returning a used material to its original state through a process of industrial retransformation, even if this results in a slight decline in quality.
Upcycling is a sophisticated form of recycling. In terms of a used material, this involves identifying its best characteristics, and those that are less malleable but still functional, in order to transform it into a new product, with a different function. In a word, it’s an upgrade. Yet this involves a good deal of thinking, experimentation, and … pure luck. It’s worth pointing out that upcycling does not have to undergo of process of industrial transformation. As a result, the amount of energy needed for its production is always minimal.
And then we come to deadstock and leftovers. Deadstock refers to unsold materials: unsold because of erroneous sales forecasts, or because of an unexpected drop in sales, or because the products never made it to market. Leftovers, on the other hand, are exactly what the word means (think of last night’s dinner, and today’s lunch). In both cases, we’re talking about materials that are still in a perfect state because they’ve never been used, but that do risk being disposed of. Unless, that is, someone finds them first and decides to give them a second chance at life.
Till the Wind Blows. Upcycling.
In the world of fashion, upcycling is nothing new. Vivienne Westwood was a pioneer and has inspired, in our day, the collections of Stella McCartney. This is not a new thing, and not even “pure avant-garde” as Meryl Streep said in “The Devil Wears Prada.” No, not a new thing at all. It has now become a necessity.
Upcycling can truly make a difference. Though it’s often thought of as “just a recycling of old stuff” (spoiler alert: it isn’t), it can give new life to durable products, high quality durable products; and if made correctly, those can be recycled again. By bringing together materials, even if it seems counterintuitive, with particular characteristics and virtuous craftsmanship, upcycling has all the right stuff to become a true revolution, and not just in the world of fashion.
One of the very first things we at JUNKLE did, when we were still a small artisanal workshop, was to upcycle used sails.
In our case, studying the characteristics of the materials used in various types of sails was a real basis for our growth and preparation for the processes of upcycling.
Upcycling unconditionally adheres to one of the best known practices of industrial design: fitness for purpose, according to which a given form, modelled with a given quantity of material, must be adequate for fulfilling a function: a function that is typically required for the product you are making.
We soon learned the following:
- understand the function of each specific type of sail used, and the way it was manufactured;
- identify the supported stress peaks and the most common breakage points or deterioration;
- identify a specific and invariable quality that is not subject to particular variations in time;
- identify a new product, or family of products, the typical function, form, and stress points of which make adequate the use of a specific type of sail.
Leftovers and Deadstock: JUNKLE Hunters.
And then all sorts of materials started arriving at the workshop. We soon realized that we couldn’t limit ourselves only to upcycling used sails. It turned out that our neighborhood here in Palermo proved to be a rich source of unexpected materials.
Let’s now talk about the pre-consumed leftovers that we receive from artisans who regularly work with PVC or deadstock in the making of outdoor-market canopies, which often lie, forgotten, in the supply room. These are all materials in optimal condition, and that risk being discarded before they’re even used. Talk about paradoxical.
Every piece, remnant, or leftover of these recovered materials has a sort of superpower. Often, it’s their colors and other qualities that suggest to us what they aspire to become. But you have to know and respect them, and understand how best to adapt them to a specific kind of work, and a particular form in order to translate them into a new product.
That’s why we actively hunt for forgotten materials, without waiting for someone to bring them to us. And when we do, it’s a great pretext for talking with people about environmental, economic, and social sustainability.
The rapport that JUNKLE has with the community that welcomes us is vibrant. It is in our community that we build relationships, create circular messaging, receive gifts, and satisfy requests.
Made to Last, Easy to Repair, Ready for Rebirth. Circular at 360°
JUNKLE has totally embraced the practice of a circular economy, looking to avoid even small compromises.
Our products are made to last and easily repairable, so we don’t want you to dump them at the first sign of wear. We are always here to help you repair any wear and tear. One of our mantras is “Repairing Rocks,” because like rock ‘n roll, repairing things is a small act of rebellion against the establishment.
What happens if one day you decide you no longer want to use one of our products? Well, you can return it to us, and we’ll give it new life. That’s a promise.
JUNKLE and Scraps. The Dump Can Wait.
The scraps we work with – sails, canopies or PVC – are never wasted. In fact, we use them to make smaller products, thus delaying their trip to the city dump.
Our wallets, small keychains and key holders are all made from the remnants of the larger products we manufacture, or from parts of JUNKLE products that are either used or returned to us for further use.
For us, every piece counts, and every JUNKLE product, large or small, is part of this productive cycle.
